Dungeon Crawlers
Supporting Miniature Wargamers Above and Below Ground-
IMEX Display Case
Posted on June 20th, 2009 No commentsNovember 2, 2007.
In my never-ending quest to find effective and affordable storage and display solutions for miniatures, here’s something I’ve come across during my summer foray into model railroading:

It’s a closed-topped clear acrylic display case made my IMEX. This particular version is suitable for displaying HO scale rolling stock, but lends itself rather well to the miniatures hobby.
The dimensions of this particular case is 14.125″ L x 3.5″ W x 3.5″ H (395mm L x 89mm W x 89mm H). IMEX makes different size display cases, as you can see below (this one is circled in red):

The display case comes carefully wrapped in bubblewrap. I’ve gotten three of these so far, and the finishes on all of the clear acrylic tops have been flawless. These are stackable, and the base tray has lowered (raised?) edges so that the upper stacked case would only touch the lower case’s clear top along the very edges.

The case consists of a clear, enclosed top, and a black plastic base. The top has two locks on the long sides that you disengage by pushing in the sides.
Here’s a front view of the display case, holding various 28-35mm scale miniatures and vehicle. From right to left, you have a Space Marine Razorback, Tau XV88 Battlesuit, Cadian Shock Trooper in front of it, and a Dreadnought and an AT-43 UNA Firetoad.

… and a top-down view. Sorry about the glare.

And, just in case you were wondering, this particular display case can hold 39 25mm round bases. Since the case is tall enough, if you are handy, it wouldn’t be too difficult to install a clear acrylic shelf, thereby doubling the storage capacity for 25mm round based-figures.

The MSRP for this case is $12.50, and I got it for $9 via mail order. Until I have the time and money to come up with an ultimate solution for miniatures storage and display (whatever shape that’ll take), this is a very cost-effective and dustproof way to store and display miniatures.
Originallly written for WeeToysSoldiers on Saturday, February 16, 2008 at 11:15 pm by Hyun
We started talking to Hyun and he’s not sure what’s happening with his site at the moment. I, personally, hate to see good content disappear so we’re slowly going to republish (with permission) his articles either here or on TerrainMonster (depending on the type of article). -
Custom White Balance (huh?)
Posted on June 15th, 2009 No commentsLet’s continue our discussion of some basic photography concepts. Since the miniatures hobby is so visual, and since my website is so image heavy, I figure it’s somewhat pertinent.
You’ve all probably seen pictures on various websites and forums, where images have heavy yellow or orange tints. That, my friend, is usually the result of using incorrect white balance value.
What is white balance? Here’s the explanation from Wikipedia:
… color balance (sometimes gray balance, neutral balance, or white balance) refers to the adjustment of the relative amounts of red, green, and blue primary colors in an image such that neutral colors are reproduced correctly.
Let’s think this through. All sources of light have different color temperatures, measured in kelvin. I won’t go into the theoretical explanation of color temperatures, of which I myself only have a tenuous understanding. Suffice it to say that different types of light sources — the sun, a fluorescent light bulb, halogen light, tungsten light, etc. — all give off different color temperature. Our brain can “interpret” the different sources on the fly without us being aware of it and render the colors correctly regardless of the source. So a red ball has the same color whether we look at it in the sun or indoors or under a light bulb. Read the rest of this entry »
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The June 2009 issue of Fictional Reality is out
Posted on June 10th, 2009 No comments
Here we are with the new issue of Fictional Reality. The June 2009 issue of Fictional Reality is ready and it’s packed with all sorts of stuff.
You can check out the new issue at http://www.fictionalreality.org
Inside you’ll find…
* Battle Report: Learn how to play Warlands from Aberrant.
* Game Reviews: Two WWG sets, Incursion, The Quintessential Fighter and more.
* Miniature Reviews: Red Box Games, Reaper, Mercs, Aberrant, Urban Mammoth and more.
* Painting Workshop: U.S. APEs for Incursion and SOTR.
* Army Building: My (re)entry into Warhammer Fantasy Battle.Due to a massive laptop failure I’m afraid that our e-mail list of people that wanted personal notification of each new issue has been fried. If you’d like to get on the list to get an e-mail from me as soon as each new issue is available just drop me a line at m.theurer@tx.rr.com with FR Subscription in the subject line and I’ll hook you up.
Thanks!
Mark, FR
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Mechwarrior Repair Bay: Disfiguration
Posted on May 26th, 2009 No commentsIn this basic tutorial I will show you step by step how to fix your mechwarrior miniatures that may have slight disfiguration due to bent limbs and other extremities. In this tutorial I will show you an example by using my vulture with a defective arm. The arm will not rotate due to the fact it is bent.

Disfigured arm
First remove the dial from the miniatures base. This is important as it will keep your dial from becoming damaged by later steps.

Remove the Dial

Select your hair dryer
Grab a hair dryer. Any hair dryer with variable speeds will work. Set your blow dryer to high. This is important as timing is key with this procedure. The plastic needs to be heated at a fast rate.

Place the setting on High

Be carefull not to over heat the mech!
Aim the dryer while on high heat to the specific area that needs adjustment. It is highly recommended that you heat the part for 5 to 10 seconds. If your miniature is a little thicker you can heat for a few seconds longer but do not exceed 15 seconds. It is also recommended that you rotate your miniature as to focus the heat on the specific part you are adjusting. The heat will loosen the plastic allowing it to bend easily

Rotate the Mech slowly

Hold the disfigured part
When you have reached the apropriate heating time quickly turn off your blow dryer and position the piece you heated where you would like it. It is important to be very careful as it will bend very easily. While holding your thumb over your heat dial and keeping your hand on the disired position of the part you are fixing, quickly run the miniature under cold running water. When the cold water meets the warm plastic it will cause it to instantly cool and shock the plastic to stay in the position that you are holding it in.

Coolant Flush!
Pat or air dry and reattatch the dial. You now have successfuly fixed a disfigured mechwarrior miniature. On a side note it is imporant to cover the heat dial as there is no lamination of the sticker and your heat dial could face water damage if not protected. 
Fully repaired!
I would like to thank my good friend Zecks for taking the time to write up this article and for taking the pictures to help explain the entire process. If you would like to see more photos on this Mechwarrior Repair Bay article please check the forums HERE
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Warhammer 40,000 Expansion: Planetstrike
Posted on May 23rd, 2009 1 commentCurrently Available for Pre-Order

Warhammer 40,000 Planetstrike
From Games Workshop Website: Planetstrike is a game of glorious invasions and desperate last stands set in the battle-ravaged universe of the 41st Millennium. Will you take the role of the defender, repelling the enemy’s vanguard with heavy weaponry and heavier fortifications? Or will you play the attacker, raining hellfire and damnation upon the foe before sending an army of your best troops to claim the smoking remains of his strongholds? This is truly a war on all fronts in which the enemy can appear at any time, from anywhere - especially from above!
This 80-page expansion book contains all of the rules and information you need to play games of Planetstrike; including: full rules for configuring your forces for planetary invasion, a full-colour hobby section on preparing your defences, and a comprehensive background section detailing some of the most infamous planetary assaults.
You must possess a copy of Warhammer 40,000 in order to use the contents of this book.
Also Available for Pre-Orders are some fantastic defensive terrain including Imperial and Chaos Bastions; Aegis Defence Line; Skyshield Landing Pad; and Mines, Bombs, and Booby Traps.

Imperial Bastion
These new plastic terrain pieces are very nice, and reminds me of the “Old Days” when Games Workshop had released the Imperial Bastion and the Imperial Firebase for Second Edition. These where thick card with printed textures used with the plastic bulkheads. I still have the instruction manuals for them.

Imperial Firebase
I must admit that I’m very excited for Planetstrike to come out. Apparantly you can mix Planetstrike, Apocalypse, and Cities of Death into a massive campaign setting that may resemble those of the Dawn of War video games. So dust off your figures and squrce up you gaming table as it is time to take back the galaxy!
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The Cartographer’s Annual 2009 March edition
Posted on March 25th, 2009 No commentsWritten by: Highland_Piper
From Profantasy
The March issue contains a detailed multi-deck plan of a sailing ship plus drawing tools and templates to draw your own. Fine-tuned sheet effects make the deckplan come alive and create maps useable both for reference and as a battlemat.

The map pack Sailing Ship includes
- 4 detailed deckplans and a sideview of the ship (png and pdf exports included)
- 1 3-page pdf Sheet and Effects Guide
- 1 5-page pdf Ship Description
- 1 new template wizard
- 1 new template
- 73 new drawing tools
- 1 new symbol catalog containing 7 new symbols
- 8 new bitmap fill styles
- 2 new effect settings
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Dungeonaday.com
Posted on March 24th, 2009 No commentsWritten by: Highland_Piper
I’m going to talk to the well known game designer Monte Cook . Now if you don’t know who Monte Cook is then you must be living under a rock. Monte Cook has a long history with game designing have worked on such titles as Rolemaster, Planescape, and author of many D&D 3rd edition books, of which include the Dungeon Master’s Guide. I would be neglected in my duties if I did not mention Ptolus an ambitious project for any designer.
Mr. Cook left Wizards of the Coast in 2001 and formed Malhavoc Press. I’m not going to rehash what many already know. The Monte Who? will give you a nice list of his accomplishments and awards. What I want to know is what is Monte Cook up to now? Well I was pleasantly surprised when I found out exactly what he has partaken in.
Dungeon A Day is a subscription based website that will offer members a new dungeon encounter every weekday, Dungeon Maps, handouts, Podcasts, Blogs, Forums, pictures, and a plethora of additions. Check out “How Does The Site Work” for the full run down on the site.
I’m not here to review Dungeon A Day, I’m here to talk with the Dungeon Master who dreamed her up. Mr. Monte Cook.
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Mach issue of Fictional Reality is out!
Posted on March 14th, 2009 No comments
Hello everyone! Here we are with the new issue of Fictional Reality. The March 2009 issue of Fictional Reality is ready and it’s packed with all sorts of stuff. Inside you’ll find…
- Battle Reports: Three of them! Pulp City, Secrets of the Third Reich and Warmachine
- Game Reviews: Apocalypse Z, Warlands and more
- Miniature Reviews: Infinity, Hasslefree, Reaper, Grindhouse and more
- Game Scenario: Rezolution
- Terrain Workshop: Some modern terrain goodness
- A preview of the new AE-WWII supplement along with an interview with Darkson Designs<
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NBOS Software The Keep v1.0
Posted on February 10th, 2009 No commentsFrom NBOS website
Finally there’s a personal information manager designed specifically for gamers… The Keep v1.0 from NBOS Software. Use The Keep to organize and track all your gaming information. Use it for your campaign notes, campaign logs, maps, handouts,… all the information you need to track for a successful campaign!
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Kit Bashing a Warhammer Fence
Posted on January 6th, 2009 No commentsI was working on my Warhammer Manor and decided that I’m going to base it. Once that decision was made, i started to lay out the base features. I was futzing with the walls and fences when I had the brilliant notion to make the gate a functioning one.
I usually get in over my head when I have these simple ideas.



